Thursday, December 30, 2010
Wednesday, December 29, 2010
The Paradox of Long Rides
Since describing my overnight ride to Maine last week, I've received an unexpected amount of correspondence from readers who feel drawn to long bike rides, but aren't sure they can handle them physically. The only other time I've had such a volume of email, was after my 100 mile ride along the Danube last Autumn - a similar theme. There is considerable interest out there in long distance cycling among those who love bikes but are not necessarily athletic.
Here is an excerpt from an email from Barbara that sums up the sentiment nicely:
"...[I am] not a strong cyclist, but I just loved your description of riding to Maine in the moonlight. I want to do a ride like this so much, it makes me want to cry! Can the weaklings among us experience a similar journey, or am I a hopeless romantic?"
This resonated with me, because it pretty much expresses my own point of view. I love the idea of covering long distances by bicycle, of experiencing beauty and adventure along the way,of bonding with companions as our wheels hum and our headlights illuminate the road. In my imagination, I do not envision this as an athletic activity or an endurance event. Ideally, it would be just a very long bike ride.
And therein lies the paradox: Yes, it is possible to experience long distance cycling from this perspective. But in order to do so, we have to get to the point where we are strong enough, so that a 100+ mile ride feels like a fun adventure and not like a physical feat we've just barely managed to survive. And this, in turn, means working up to it and getting in shape for it.
How is this different from just riding? I suspect there is more than one answer. But the way I interpret it, the crucial difference is that the rides are more structured - with the goal of building up miles, speed, and time in the saddle. Prior to last summer, I never followed any kind of structure, hoping that my endurance and handling skills would just build up organically, inspired by the joy of riding alone. I am sorry to say that this did not happen. Only when I started taking part in club rides,met experienced riding partners,and adapted a more focused approach, did I undergo significant improvements. The structure and discipline changed my body, ultimately giving me more freedom. This may not be the path for everyone, but I am being honest about what it's been like for me.
While the readers who contacted me about long distance riding did so seeking some form of insight, it was in fact I who ended up gaining insight from them; insofar that they helped me recognise this contradiction. I am sometimes asked what my goal in roadcycling is. And I think that my goal, if any, is to get to the point where riding long distance is entirely about the journey and the scenery, not about overcoming physical limitations. But I am willing to work on overcoming those limitations in order to get to that point.
Monday, December 27, 2010
Snake
I had to run out and try to plant some wildflower rescues before it rained. But I was stopped short by a very pretty black and yellow snake at the edge of the woods.
"Hello, little snake. You're very pretty. Thomas will definitely want to see you. Don't go away. Stay right there!"
He didn't listen to me though. By the time I got back with the camera, he was gone. I tried calling him, but it didn't work.
"Come back, pretty snake!"
(Snakes are above flattery.)
"Thomas will be so disappointed!"
(Snakes are impervious to guilt.)
"I'll make you a big star!"
(Snakes don't suffer from vanity.)
Oh, well. As with Thomas and his recent misadventures, things don't always work out like you plan.
OK, so what do I already have a picture of, that a first grade boy might like?
Maybe this.
Teeth on a deer skeleton.
Guess who dragged it into the yard.
Yep, that's who.
OK, Monk is coming on. It's the Halloween episode - I have to go watch Danny's house!
"Hello, little snake. You're very pretty. Thomas will definitely want to see you. Don't go away. Stay right there!"
He didn't listen to me though. By the time I got back with the camera, he was gone. I tried calling him, but it didn't work.
"Come back, pretty snake!"
(Snakes are above flattery.)
"Thomas will be so disappointed!"
(Snakes are impervious to guilt.)
"I'll make you a big star!"
(Snakes don't suffer from vanity.)
Oh, well. As with Thomas and his recent misadventures, things don't always work out like you plan.
OK, so what do I already have a picture of, that a first grade boy might like?
Maybe this.
Teeth on a deer skeleton.
Guess who dragged it into the yard.
Yep, that's who.
OK, Monk is coming on. It's the Halloween episode - I have to go watch Danny's house!
Friday, December 24, 2010
Looking In
Lee took this photo of me in the crack in the rock. You can see the other side where it ends.
Thursday, December 23, 2010
Death Valley :: Wiley Coyote
On the day that I drove down Badwater Road to the Devil's Golf Course and Badwater, I continued a bit further on for another 20 miles or so. I saw something crossing the road in the distance. Slowing down as I got closer, I saw that it was a coyote. It stood along the side of the road as I pulled over and stopped, trying to get the passenger side window down and grabbing my camera at the same time.
It was very close, within two or three feet of the side of the car. I took several quick shots thinking it would soon continue on its way. However, it just stood there watching me and I watched it. Realizing that I had a little more time, I zoomed in a bit to get a few closeup shots. It was incredible.
Five minutes went by and the coyote was still there. It was a little unnerving to look it in the eye. I'm guessing that at some time it had been fed by someone in a car, otherwise I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't have stuck around so long. It was still standing there as I drove off a few minutes later.
It was very close, within two or three feet of the side of the car. I took several quick shots thinking it would soon continue on its way. However, it just stood there watching me and I watched it. Realizing that I had a little more time, I zoomed in a bit to get a few closeup shots. It was incredible.
Five minutes went by and the coyote was still there. It was a little unnerving to look it in the eye. I'm guessing that at some time it had been fed by someone in a car, otherwise I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't have stuck around so long. It was still standing there as I drove off a few minutes later.
Wednesday, December 22, 2010
Troll Stack
Here is a small sea stack that my guide said looked like a troll but I really couldn't see it, but it was fun to watch the water coming in through the holes. I took lots of photos but never actually got the water coming in the hole. Still it looked good with the sun behind it.
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Riptide
You can find several of these signs on all the beachs warning about the logs coming in out of the water.
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Earth's Silent Spin
Check out my latest night-time photographic creation at the Spirit Tree. There were lights coming from four different sources in this image... the stars, the moon (which was rising off to the right), the city lights of Thunder Bay, Ontario and that obnoxious bright white light in the center of the photo, which is coming from a couple of spotlights at the U.S. Customs border inspection station. I have been noticing that bright light in several of my recent night images. I kind of like the effect it has on this image, but most of the time I wish it wasn’t there.
What Tan Lines?
thanks to PL for the leg modeling! |
This summer I've received some emails from readers asking for suggestions on how to get rid of tan lines from bicycle shorts. The women I ride with sometimes discuss this as well. Some say they actively try to cultivate cycling tan lines, seeing them as a source of pride and part of their identity as road cyclists. Others say they dislike tan lines, because they look unflattering when wearing skirts and bathing suits. For me, it's more about the attention they generate and feeling branded: I've had stares and questions from cyclists and non-cyclists alike that I'd rather avoid.
For those who do not wish to cultivate obvious cycling tan lines, one solution is to alternate bicycle shorts of different lengths. Assuming that you are not a racer who is required to ride in a specific kit, yet ride often enough to justify owning more than one pair of shorts, this method works pretty well. I now own three pairs of shorts, each from a different manufacturer: One hits just above the knee, the other half way up the thigh, and the third somewhere in between. I make sure to rotate them, while also doing my best to regularly apply sun screen. The result is a very gradual colour-fade from the knees up instead of a harsh tan line. The leg model above is sporting a similar look, though a little more crisp than mine.
If you've already got the tan lines and need to quickly get rid of them (say, for an event), try makeup. Buy liquid makeup in a shade that matches the tanned area and apply it to the untanned part - reducing the density as you move upward. A friend of mine did this when she had to wear a short bridesmaid's dress (the bride said the tan lines would ruin her wedding photos). It works, though will smear on the underside of your hem a bit. Spray tan would also work if you need the effect to last longer, though makeup tends to look more natural.
What's your take on tan lines from cycling shorts? Are you bothered by them, pleased by them, or does it not matter? I admit that I've identified other cyclists by their tan lines... though I try not to stare!
Renting the KHS Green
Earlier this spring, I was delighted to discover that the KHS Green can be rented from our local Cambridge Bicycle. The cost is $25 per 24 hour period. My darling Co-habitant and I rented a men's and a ladies' and took them along the Charles River, as well as through some streets of Cambridge, Somerville, and the center of Boston. We went to some of the places we usually frequent, to see what it would be like to get there by bike (it was great!). And I intentionally wore a skirt, to determine whether this would present any problems (it did not!).
Renting a bicycle similar in style to the one you plan to purchase is something I very much recommend. It has certainly helped me hone down my preferences. For one thing, the 3 speeds were just barely enough for Boston, and we did not even go to the particularly hilly areas. So now I know that 3 speeds are a minimum for me, and that a single speed bike is out of the question.
I have also discovered that I love the coaster brake. Despite never having ridden a bicycle with this braking system, I got used to it immediately and found that, especially when riding through the city, it gives me the optimal degree of control. It is also somehow less stressful to use than the hand-brakes, especially if you are a person who panics easily when other bikes or cars are close to you. Though it was comfortable to have the front-wheel handbrake there, I barely used it and relied mostly on the coaster brake.
Another pleasant discovery was that, after 12 years of not touching a bicycle, I was not as out of practice as I feared. I had tried other bicycles in bike shops over the past year, but did not feel sufficiently comfortable with any of them to ride them on the street. The KHS Green is the first bike I've tried that has made me feel okay with actually riding it "for real". And as soon as I started riding the bike, it all came back to me naturally. The upright sitting position was an absolute joy, as we breezed past the ridiculously picturesque blossoming cherry trees.
After riding the KHS Green for an entire day, I would describe it as a good bike. When going over cobblestones, the ride can be a little bumpy and it is missing some components that my bike would ideally have, such as the dress guard and a full chain enclosure, but for the price it is a great deal. If my budget does not allow me to splurge on the likes of Gazelle, the KHS Green may be my bicycle of choice.
Renting a bicycle similar in style to the one you plan to purchase is something I very much recommend. It has certainly helped me hone down my preferences. For one thing, the 3 speeds were just barely enough for Boston, and we did not even go to the particularly hilly areas. So now I know that 3 speeds are a minimum for me, and that a single speed bike is out of the question.
I have also discovered that I love the coaster brake. Despite never having ridden a bicycle with this braking system, I got used to it immediately and found that, especially when riding through the city, it gives me the optimal degree of control. It is also somehow less stressful to use than the hand-brakes, especially if you are a person who panics easily when other bikes or cars are close to you. Though it was comfortable to have the front-wheel handbrake there, I barely used it and relied mostly on the coaster brake.
Another pleasant discovery was that, after 12 years of not touching a bicycle, I was not as out of practice as I feared. I had tried other bicycles in bike shops over the past year, but did not feel sufficiently comfortable with any of them to ride them on the street. The KHS Green is the first bike I've tried that has made me feel okay with actually riding it "for real". And as soon as I started riding the bike, it all came back to me naturally. The upright sitting position was an absolute joy, as we breezed past the ridiculously picturesque blossoming cherry trees.
After riding the KHS Green for an entire day, I would describe it as a good bike. When going over cobblestones, the ride can be a little bumpy and it is missing some components that my bike would ideally have, such as the dress guard and a full chain enclosure, but for the price it is a great deal. If my budget does not allow me to splurge on the likes of Gazelle, the KHS Green may be my bicycle of choice.
Sunday, December 12, 2010
Assateague Island :: Sunrise
One of the things I had promised myself that I would do while at Assateague was to get up early enough to watch the sunrise over the marsh. The first three mornings had already gone by and I hadn't gotten up in time but when Friday morning (October 23rd) rolled around, I awoke before the sun was over the horizon. The clouds in the sky were bathed in streaks of orange and pink. It turned out to be a spectacular sunrise. One of the best. Ever. Mother Nature outdid herself that morning.
7:00 a. m. Walking over to the marsh boardwalk.
It was cold. And Dark.
But I just knew it would be worth the effort.
That was an understatement.
7:07 a. m. From the middle of the boardwalk.
7:13 a. m. From the far side of the boardwalk.
Looking just a little to the south of the sun.
The sky and marsh were completely bathed in wonderful light.
7:18 a. m. From a distance, using the telephoto feature.
Looking directly into the rising sun. Magnificent.
7:22 a. m. From the same spot as the previous photo.
Longer telephoto setting.
The sun rising over the horizon.
7:24 a. m. The morning has risen.
Breathtakingly beautiful. Quiet. Tranquil.
All mine, and mine alone. Until now, when I share it with you.
7:32 a. m. My only companions were the birds.
A small flock of Snowy Egrets.
7:00 a. m. Walking over to the marsh boardwalk.
It was cold. And Dark.
But I just knew it would be worth the effort.
That was an understatement.
7:07 a. m. From the middle of the boardwalk.
7:13 a. m. From the far side of the boardwalk.
Looking just a little to the south of the sun.
The sky and marsh were completely bathed in wonderful light.
7:18 a. m. From a distance, using the telephoto feature.
Looking directly into the rising sun. Magnificent.
7:22 a. m. From the same spot as the previous photo.
Longer telephoto setting.
The sun rising over the horizon.
7:24 a. m. The morning has risen.
Breathtakingly beautiful. Quiet. Tranquil.
All mine, and mine alone. Until now, when I share it with you.
7:32 a. m. My only companions were the birds.
A small flock of Snowy Egrets.
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Trail Running Challenges
On the way to the trailhead... Ehhhh |
On the way home... Ahhhhh |
Recently running has felt different. It seems summer has finally hit the Laurel Highlands. It's been really warm and humid, with storms plentiful especially this past week. I managed to get rained or stormed on several times. The weather was in the lower 90's with the humidity similar or higher. My body has been holding up well to the quick increase of mileage. I've been pushing a little harder, but trying not to overdo things. Being able to run again feels so good and I don't want ruin it. I've been rebuilding my ski injured body with the dreams of pulling off a LHHT double as early as fall (or spring '14). During this rehab and training I've been reading more on Challenges and FKT's (fastest known time's). I'll try to explain the way I understand them. Competing for aFKT's is simply trying to achieve the fastest time over a predetermined course/trail, alone or in a group, but not an organized race on a designated day. They can be short 5K runs or long trails like the Appalachian or Continental Divide. They can be completed any time you choose. No set date, even worse yet, weekend. Only success or failure awaits with only one person holding the FKT. The honor system applies, although for major or serious FKT records tracking devices are utilized for proof. Challenges are different because they're a personal goal to complete, not a race. Did you accomplish the course set out and if you have already, could you do it quicker? Challenges are more about personal accomplishment, although most have a FKT as well.
While browsing around, I stumbled upon this challenge here in my back yard. Its called theOhiopyle 50K (Gate-to-8 X 2) posted on the North East Ohio Trail Club (NEO Trail Club) website. I'm not a member of the club, but found the posted challenge. Whether you have to be a club member to be listed after completion I don't know. Either way, it gives me a goal to accomplish that I haven't done. I know I'm not in super woodz ninja shape right now, so I figured it was time to incorporate the Gate to 8 section of the Laurel Highlands Hiking trail into my week of running as well as some other quicker tempo runs.
Recent runs
The Barn at Bear Run Nature Reserve |
Tuesday 7/2 Laura's Tiny Tulip Traverse, 5 miles - This is a run that Laura put together after my Bear Run Trail Run challenge. What a great 5 mile (apprx.) loop in Bear Run Nature Reserve. It follows Tree, Rhododendron, Tulip Tree, Snowbunny, Rhododendron and Tree Trails in a counter clockwise lollipop. The route climbs 718' and is on some pretty amazing trails (especially Tulip Tree) It was my first time running this route and I wanted to apply a reasonable effort. I ran the wonderful course enjoying the steepening climb from the car up to Tulip Tree... Tulip Tree is freakin' fun. What else can I say. This is the best .8 mile trail I've ever run. It is so fast and dabalicious. Quick footwork on slightly downhill single track, runners high for sure! It had to be built by runners. I wish it was way longer. Snowbunny leads back across the hill and down to the early trails you started on, then finishes at the sign-in. Warm and humid as described above. Ran the course in 45:41, with one routing mishap.
Wednesday 7/3 LHHT Gate to 8, 15.75 miles - I was planning on running to MP 10 and back for 20 miles, but... Everything was going well. I ran an "easy" pace NOBO, hiking most of the hills. I was hearing some distant thunder while climbing up "heart attack hill" towards MP7. By the time I had MP 8 in sight, the sky was quite black and the thunder was persistent. Retreat was my thought. I barely took 20 strides SOBO and the skies opened up and the rains came... and came... and came. I bombed heart attack hill in a muddy running creek with extremely limited visibility. My visor helped, but I found its limitations. It was similar to winter white-outs I've experienced. My nonchalant pace quickened on the return trip with rains stopping and skies clearing briefly for about a mile. Despite the heat, slippery trail and slug like pace I managed a 3:23:44 overall. X2 laps would put me under 7hrs for the 50K Challenge. Seems like a good start. Elevation +4081, -4064.
Thursday 7/4 Bear Rocks Loop, 4 miles - It was the Fourth of July. I squeezed in a short, slow, road run in the sun. Ran the loop in 29:03. Elevation +416, -406. Not much to say.
Thursday 7/5 Yough River Trail, 2 miles - Ran with Laura and her sore knee. Rest day, spent most of it lounging by the river at the Oasis...AHHHHH! Then went running. 22:08.
River art = Rart at "The Oasis" |
Friday 7/3 LHHT Gate to 8, 15.75 miles- It was 91° which seemed perfect for another training lap of Gate to 8 ;) I figured that If I practice in conditions like that, surely a more comfortable day will feel slightly easier? The cooler months have been when other (wiser) people have done it. I'll try in August and then hopefully improve on that later in the year under favorable conditions. I went out intentionally slow trying to adjust to the heat. Humidity was really high and in no time I was sweating buckets. The overall trip was very hot with a flash storm popping up and tagging along with me for about 45 min. Compared to the dumping on Wednesday this was nothing. I did pass another trail runner around mile 4. We were both moving quickly and gave a wave without stopping. I ran out of water coming up the last hill before MP 3. I should've stopped at the stream to at least fill a handheld. Finished the run in 3:31:03, incredibly hot and thirsty.
Weekly rundown5 runs8hrs31min.42 milesElevation +9,405', -9,306'
Monday, December 6, 2010
Wild Locast Tree
It was very dry in the mountains so I was surprised to see so many wild flowers blooming. The wild locast trees were beautiful with pale pink to a light purple in color blossoms. There were wild roses, iris, and lupines as well as many others that I couldn't name and were so tiny I couldn't get a decent photo of.
Summer life in SWPA
Hello to all my climbing buddies out there. As most of you know I usually only post about thewinter climbing here in SWPA. Well I've decided to mix it up a bit (different meaning to my winter climbing buddies) and write a bit about this years summer climbing life. Don't get me wrong. I love the winter season... Its my favorite time of year for climbing. Give me waterfall ice, frozen turf or some slightly frozen rock any day. I'm in heaven. I haven't posted any summer climbing activity because summer climbing hasn't really existed for me the over the last few years. Why? Its been a voluntary choice. I've been taking the summers off to recover and train specifically for the upcoming winter season. During the summer I spend the majority of my time running countless miles though the woods and ridges of Pennsylvania's forests. I really enjoy trail running and have learned that long distance running is a great way to stay in top cardio shape for climbing regardless of season. I used to run races and did fairly well. This year I gave up racing, I just ran to run. I even held off from doing my favorite "good cause" 5k runs like The Mountain Laurel 5K at Laurel Hill State Park. Instead I just ran for fun. I even stopped more than usual along the way to check things out. I always enjoy the early morning birds and scenery. Don't get me wrong, I put in a lot of elevation and speed work. I've run a gazillion 800's at the track, etc... but the most enjoyable running I've done has been in the woods. Mostly on the Laurel Highlands Hiking Trail. I enjoy covering anywhere from 10 to 50 miles a day depending on mood and current physical condition. Some days I push, others not so much. All in all running has become a serious passion of mine and a great training tool for climbers. It also teaches you about the importance of nutrition and hydration while expending mass amounts of energy. Another great tool for striving climbers. So if you're a climber and you want to get better and stay lean and in shape, start running... The further and longer the better. Climbing lighter is climbing smarter!Since last ice season was a bust and we did very minimal climbing. I decided enough was enough and dusted off my rock shoes and started summer climbing to make sure I remembered how (in case we never get another winter). I started back slow and spent some time bumbling at the familiar, local spots. Having a great deal of fun each time I went out. Our days have been spent cragging and working at crags to clear and improve areas so that people can visit/revist and enjoy our local spots.
BREAKNECK PROJECT
In August I spent a couple weeks rebolting Breakneck Crag just outside of Connellsville. The bolts were getting old and a bunch of generous climbers raised enough money to purchase new hardware. I pulled the old rusted 3/8" bolts and replacing them with new, BEEFY 1/2" stainless steel ones. All the climbs now have ring shuts to lower from (even the lower slab).
LOST CRAG EFFORTS
Laura and I spent a great deal of time doing work at the Lost Crag in Dunbar. We cleared and remarked the entire "Upper Easy" approach trail. Much effort was spent at the crag itself improving the area and opening up some choked in areas around the rocks. Along with working there, we also climbed a few days with my son Skyler and good friend Cal Swogar. Neither one were ever there and really enjoyed the climbs. On different days we climbed Drill Queen 5.4, Preacher Norm 5.10, Evil Edge 5.7, Psycho Driller 5.6, Lichenville 5.7, Lame Duck 5.11, Chimney Sweep 5.4 and others I'm sure. Some routes were a little dirty other required a little scrubbing to make them a little "friendlier". We installed a new rap anchor on top of the Short stack to make getting down a little easier. If someone has stolen said anchor, feel confident that we also cleared the shelf that makes getting onto rappel at the shuts of Reunion safer and easier. If you've never been there, get directions from mountainproject.com or rockclimbing.com or email me and I can hook you up with some proper ones. Its a fun place to visit and deserves to see more activity than it does. The routes tend to be shorter, but there are plenty of them. They range in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.12+ most folks seem to say they're a little stiff for the grade. Go enjoy!
River's End Crag, Ohiopyle State Park
River's End is one of the downstream crags at Ohiopyle State Park. It's located (although not labeled) on the Ohiopyle State Park Map. available at the old train station or the park office. Climbing areas are indicated by the climber symbol on the map. I've been asked by several folks the order of the crags going down the bike trail here they are for clarification: The first area listed on the Ohiopyle map is located 1 mile downstream on the bike trail (just after white mile post 73). Unnamed to my knowledge, its primarily used by the local rafting companies to take very new climbers, boy/girl scouts, etc. for a day of top roping. Its short and closest to town. Perfect crag for beginners. The second crag on the map is River's End Crag. It is located about 3.75 miles downstream from the train station it is locatable by finding the DH marked brown and yellow marker on the river side of the bike trail. This DH stands for Double Hydraulics which is the name of the corresponding rapid on the river. River's End Crag is located between the DH (Double Hydraulics) rapid marker and the RE (River's End) rapid marker. The crag is on the left between these two markers. It is very visible from the trail. The Third crag downstream on the map is Schoolhouse Crag. It is located 4.25 miles from the train station, just before the SH (school House) rapid marker or the 76 mile marker. The fourth crag downstream on the map is Maple Wall. It is slightly less than 1/2 mile past School house. It is easily located at the end of the long straight away on the bike path right after passing School House. There is a pull off and a bench directly across from the access trail up to the crag. The fifth crag downstream on the map is Bruner Run. It is easily located. As you head further downstream past Maple Wall you will come to a hardtop road crossing. As you cross the road the light blue blaze for the access trail to the crag is visible on your left. Follow the access trail up to the crag, which is about a 10min. hike up from the bike trail and Bruner Run Rd. access point. If in doubt walk up the road about 200 yards the crag is visible on your right. Currently those are all the downstream crags offered at Ohiopyle. There is plenty of serious bouldering to be found along the river and bike trail. Some really nice stuff is at mile post 1 on the Laurel Highlands Hiking trail heading out of town near Falls Pub for those interested in seeking it out. Here's a photo of one of my favorites not far from Bruner Run.
River's End Crag... Laura and I have been cycling in regularly and improving things there. We've created a bike parking area on the river side of the bike trail to keep climbers bikes from crowding the trail. We worked on improving the access trail up to the left side, (still needs a little work). Old routes have been cleaned and new routes have been equipped and should prove to be great additions to the climbing in Ohiopyle. Here's a few photos of the crag and climbs waiting for your ascent.
The Knobs a.ka. Rob's Knob, Dunbar, PA
We've been up here a few times this season. We cleared the trail and restacked the carins on the way up the hill. Most of the climbs are in good shape as far as needing cleaned. We did quite a few of the 63 or so routes that exist here. So many have been recently brushed and are ready to go. Most of the bolts were replaced just a few years back, so everything is solid. This place deserves to see more traffic. I'm sure only a handful of people actually climb here each season. What a great crag to visit if you are comfortable placing a little trad gear. Some fully bolted climbs exits, but you'd be missing some of the best lines if you don't bring some trad gear for the mixed and pure gear lines. If you've never been there, this crag should be on your list to visit soon. We added a rap station on the Can I touch it block at the top of I think I soloed that 5.6 to help in getting down off of this block. Another rap station was added on top of Oriental Lickmaster block. It is between the corner climb Way Up 5.8, trad. and Gagging on the Shag 5.11c/d trad. since the tree normally used for rappel is now mostly rotten. Some pics of The Knobs or a.k.a. Rob's Knob.
Doing work at Breakneck |
BREAKNECK PROJECT
In August I spent a couple weeks rebolting Breakneck Crag just outside of Connellsville. The bolts were getting old and a bunch of generous climbers raised enough money to purchase new hardware. I pulled the old rusted 3/8" bolts and replacing them with new, BEEFY 1/2" stainless steel ones. All the climbs now have ring shuts to lower from (even the lower slab).
LOST CRAG EFFORTS
Laura and I spent a great deal of time doing work at the Lost Crag in Dunbar. We cleared and remarked the entire "Upper Easy" approach trail. Much effort was spent at the crag itself improving the area and opening up some choked in areas around the rocks. Along with working there, we also climbed a few days with my son Skyler and good friend Cal Swogar. Neither one were ever there and really enjoyed the climbs. On different days we climbed Drill Queen 5.4, Preacher Norm 5.10, Evil Edge 5.7, Psycho Driller 5.6, Lichenville 5.7, Lame Duck 5.11, Chimney Sweep 5.4 and others I'm sure. Some routes were a little dirty other required a little scrubbing to make them a little "friendlier". We installed a new rap anchor on top of the Short stack to make getting down a little easier. If someone has stolen said anchor, feel confident that we also cleared the shelf that makes getting onto rappel at the shuts of Reunion safer and easier. If you've never been there, get directions from mountainproject.com or rockclimbing.com or email me and I can hook you up with some proper ones. Its a fun place to visit and deserves to see more activity than it does. The routes tend to be shorter, but there are plenty of them. They range in difficulty from 5.4 to 5.12+ most folks seem to say they're a little stiff for the grade. Go enjoy!
Cal Swogar on Preacher Norm 5.10 |
Cal Swogar on Preacher Norm 5.10 |
Skyler Anderson on Evil Arete 5.7 |
Laura taking a break below Brutal Orangutan |
Slopers in the rain face |
River's End Crag, Ohiopyle State Park
River's End is one of the downstream crags at Ohiopyle State Park. It's located (although not labeled) on the Ohiopyle State Park Map. available at the old train station or the park office. Climbing areas are indicated by the climber symbol on the map. I've been asked by several folks the order of the crags going down the bike trail here they are for clarification: The first area listed on the Ohiopyle map is located 1 mile downstream on the bike trail (just after white mile post 73). Unnamed to my knowledge, its primarily used by the local rafting companies to take very new climbers, boy/girl scouts, etc. for a day of top roping. Its short and closest to town. Perfect crag for beginners. The second crag on the map is River's End Crag. It is located about 3.75 miles downstream from the train station it is locatable by finding the DH marked brown and yellow marker on the river side of the bike trail. This DH stands for Double Hydraulics which is the name of the corresponding rapid on the river. River's End Crag is located between the DH (Double Hydraulics) rapid marker and the RE (River's End) rapid marker. The crag is on the left between these two markers. It is very visible from the trail. The Third crag downstream on the map is Schoolhouse Crag. It is located 4.25 miles from the train station, just before the SH (school House) rapid marker or the 76 mile marker. The fourth crag downstream on the map is Maple Wall. It is slightly less than 1/2 mile past School house. It is easily located at the end of the long straight away on the bike path right after passing School House. There is a pull off and a bench directly across from the access trail up to the crag. The fifth crag downstream on the map is Bruner Run. It is easily located. As you head further downstream past Maple Wall you will come to a hardtop road crossing. As you cross the road the light blue blaze for the access trail to the crag is visible on your left. Follow the access trail up to the crag, which is about a 10min. hike up from the bike trail and Bruner Run Rd. access point. If in doubt walk up the road about 200 yards the crag is visible on your right. Currently those are all the downstream crags offered at Ohiopyle. There is plenty of serious bouldering to be found along the river and bike trail. Some really nice stuff is at mile post 1 on the Laurel Highlands Hiking trail heading out of town near Falls Pub for those interested in seeking it out. Here's a photo of one of my favorites not far from Bruner Run.
This is what you see from the trail |
a little closer, pretty cool |
The really sweet uphill side! |
River's End Crag... Laura and I have been cycling in regularly and improving things there. We've created a bike parking area on the river side of the bike trail to keep climbers bikes from crowding the trail. We worked on improving the access trail up to the left side, (still needs a little work). Old routes have been cleaned and new routes have been equipped and should prove to be great additions to the climbing in Ohiopyle. Here's a few photos of the crag and climbs waiting for your ascent.
Me standing below the left side of Rivers End Crag |
One of our new lines Snail Trail 5.6 trad, left side |
The left side of Rivers End Crag. |
The petrified log on the new line Petrified 5.11- Sport, left side |
On the first ascent of Petrified 5.11- sport, 5 bolts, left side |
Me tying in for the new climb Carl's Bunnies 5.9 sport, 3 bolts, left side |
An amazingly fun new line (Laura's favorite) The Bee's Knees 5.10+ sport, 4 bolts, right side. Follow up slightly overhanging flakes to the shuts. |
My super partner after a hot and humid day! |
Here's a couple of shots from a few years back highlighting the route B.O.P. 5.10c R at River's End Crag, Right side. |
Carl Samples climbs B.O.P (Birds of Prey) 5.10+ sport at River's End Crag in . The route Carl's Bunnies on the left wall is a reference to him |
Carl Samples at the shuts on B.O.P at River's End Crag in . |
The Knobs a.ka. Rob's Knob, Dunbar, PA
We've been up here a few times this season. We cleared the trail and restacked the carins on the way up the hill. Most of the climbs are in good shape as far as needing cleaned. We did quite a few of the 63 or so routes that exist here. So many have been recently brushed and are ready to go. Most of the bolts were replaced just a few years back, so everything is solid. This place deserves to see more traffic. I'm sure only a handful of people actually climb here each season. What a great crag to visit if you are comfortable placing a little trad gear. Some fully bolted climbs exits, but you'd be missing some of the best lines if you don't bring some trad gear for the mixed and pure gear lines. If you've never been there, this crag should be on your list to visit soon. We added a rap station on the Can I touch it block at the top of I think I soloed that 5.6 to help in getting down off of this block. Another rap station was added on top of Oriental Lickmaster block. It is between the corner climb Way Up 5.8, trad. and Gagging on the Shag 5.11c/d trad. since the tree normally used for rappel is now mostly rotten. Some pics of The Knobs or a.k.a. Rob's Knob.
Climbing Way Up 5.8 trad |
Christian Mason on Take a Stab 5.8 trad |
Gagging on the Shag 5.11c/d trad |
Mungo Jelly 5.10c, mixed, 1 bolt |
Laura belaying me on Can I touch it 5.11c sport 2 bolts |
Laura and I relaxing at The Knobs photo Ray Burnsworth |
Terror of Tiny Tim |
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