Lots of climbing reports. Here's a scary image of Rainier's north face... A serac falls off the Liberty Cap Glacier down the Liberty Wall.
It was a very warm this weekend. Thankfully, most climbers had a great time and there were no accidents... Reports to follow soon (i.e. TONIGHT.)
Image by David Gottlieb
Thursday, May 31, 2012
Wednesday, May 30, 2012
Wisconsin Dells Fifty Years Ago
Postcards. On the left is "Swallows' Nests, Wisconsin Dells. In the summer hundreds of swallows make their homes in holes in the sandstone cliff." And, at right is "Motor Launch on the Wisconsin River."
In a previous post I mentioned that my grandpa Vic and Aunt Shirley Phend had taken my brothers and me on a trip to the Wisconsin Dells. That was fifty years ago this week and it made the "gossip" column of the local newspaper! I'm not sure why they decided to take us along, Mom says they asked us to go simply because they thought we would enjoy the trip. We did, though now the details are a bit fuzzy. I think we were the only ones they ever took on a trip with them. I wonder if we were that ornery that they were put off doing it again? Mom did say that grandpa told her that he had to threaten us a few times to settle us down but that overall 'we were pretty good kids' so maybe they just never took another trip together. I do remember that us kids usually got along well, especially Jack and me, and that Doug was the instigator of many of the things that got us in trouble over the years. Of course, I would never start anything ;-)
In July 1957, Jack was the youngest and would turn 8 years old on the 8th of July. Doug had turned 10 in March, and I was 9 years old.
As with many of my later trips, I kept a record, sort of, of the towns we passed through. I just love the spelling of some of them. . .
The postcard below was written to my aunt Pat, one of Mom's sisters, but was apparently never mailed. That's not my signature, my Mother wrote my name in later. It says: "Dear Pat,We got to wisconson at 6:30. We went threw 31 towns. It took us 9 and a half hours to get there. It took us 350 miles to get there. How are all of you. I am fine. We went sight seeing and we went on a boat ride and we saw some Indinas."
My sister was only three years old at the time, so she didn't get to go along. This card was sent to her: "Dear Terry, I am fine. How are you. We are going to see some Indians tomorrow and we are going to take a boat ride.From Becky and Jacky.
Sunday, May 27, 2012
Almost Ready!
Anyone remember that flood that happened way back in 2006? There was a little damage to some areas of the park, with roads, trails and even whole campgrounds being damaged or disappearing entirely. The lower part of the Glacier Basin trail was one area that was heavily affected by the flooding, and for the last few years NPS trail crews along with hundreds of volunteers have been working almost nonstop on the new re-route of the trail.
Now to the fun part...
The first mile of the new trail is almost ready to be opened! Trail crews are working on the finishing touches like some beautiful bridges to keep your feet dry crossing creeks, and rock walls that not only look cool but actually add to the stability of the trail. They should have the trail open soon, although the actual opening date has not been set, so until they actually open it please respect the closed area so crews can work uninterrupted to get projects finished. For now enjoy some of these photos that rangers were able to take during our sneak preview the other day. Stop by the White River ranger station for the all the latest information on the Glacier Basin trail, or any other trail for that matter.
If you happen to come across a trail crew out working be sure to thank them for all the hard work they do on our many miles of trails here at Mount Rainier.
As for conditions on the upper mountain these days everything is in spectacular condition. Many groups have been out climbing and skiing all over the mountain from Ptarmigan and Liberty Ridges to the standards such as the DC and Emmons. All reports have been of excellent conditions. The sun has been out, winds have been mild, and fun is being had all over, so check out some of the new route updates get your gear together and come climb with us!
Now to the fun part...
The first mile of the new trail is almost ready to be opened! Trail crews are working on the finishing touches like some beautiful bridges to keep your feet dry crossing creeks, and rock walls that not only look cool but actually add to the stability of the trail. They should have the trail open soon, although the actual opening date has not been set, so until they actually open it please respect the closed area so crews can work uninterrupted to get projects finished. For now enjoy some of these photos that rangers were able to take during our sneak preview the other day. Stop by the White River ranger station for the all the latest information on the Glacier Basin trail, or any other trail for that matter.
If you happen to come across a trail crew out working be sure to thank them for all the hard work they do on our many miles of trails here at Mount Rainier.
As for conditions on the upper mountain these days everything is in spectacular condition. Many groups have been out climbing and skiing all over the mountain from Ptarmigan and Liberty Ridges to the standards such as the DC and Emmons. All reports have been of excellent conditions. The sun has been out, winds have been mild, and fun is being had all over, so check out some of the new route updates get your gear together and come climb with us!
Wednesday, May 23, 2012
Old Truck
On the edge of the meadow where the logging camp used to Lee and Tuffee check out the old truck.
Sunday, May 20, 2012
Alpinism?
If you aren't aware of the fact, the blog format details very accurate data on use and visitors. So I see where the traffic comes from by country and URL both.
Photo courtesy of Ally Swinton, his Nomic with a C/T hammer, solo on the North Face of the Midi
The majority of the use is from the US and Canada followed closely by the UK and then virtually every alpine country in the world follows.
The US numbers would seem to be a given. I post enough on Canadian and the UK climbing web sites that it isn't a surprise there. The rest of the traffic is.
I hope those that already know this will pardon me restating the obvious for us in NA.
Last year a couple of friends asked me how to better learn "alpinism". What ever that means to you. For many here in the NW that might mean climbing Ptarmiganm ridge as the ultimate goal or the North face on Mt Temple in the Rockies. For others the Cassin on Denali. Big jump between the three.
And any one of them worthy goals.
When I look back at 40 years of alpine climbing the one place that defines the sport and generally the climbers I admire it is Chamonix. Climbs like the MacIntyre-Colton on the Grand Jorasses definealpinism to me.
There are a couple dozen climbers I suspect in Chamonix-Courmayeur area (or who climb there on a regular basis) that we have never heard of, that have done more hard alpine climbing thananyonefrom the US, past or present.
Bold statement, I know.
But then, do you know the guy who not only broke Ueli Steck's speed record on the Ginat this winter and carried skis up and over while doing it? Yes. alpine climbing is all about conditions. And the Ginat had steps up it earlier in the in the winter. But still...anyone know this guy or his time?
Chamonix is a big and complexarea, has an amazing amount of climbing, (more than any one person will ever do in a life time) and super easy access (but not as easy as it first appears). Generally you will be climbing above 11,000 feet if you want to climb on the bigger faces. And best of all the rock is stellar in comparison to Canadian limestone and the weather stunning in clarity if rather harsh (Alaska harsh) in the storm cycles when they do arrive. Nothing like it for terrainin North America outside Alaska.
Bottom line here? If you want to learn what thestate of alpine climbing is in the world today...or get better at your own alpine climbing in the shortest amount of time involved, you simply must climb (and you mustski) in Chamonix.
Lots of places to rock climb in the world. Yosemite one of the best. Just as many of us have learned a lot in Yosemite it isn't the end all to rock climbing. Close may :) It might well be the one destination you must make it to if you rock climb. Chamonix is the one place you must visit if you alpine climb.
Take a look at Colin Haley's blog during March and April over the last few years to put the climbing access and skiing into perspective.
http://colinhaley.blogspot.com//04/back-in-chamonix.html
I have a few months worth of writing and opinions to catch up on. Most of thatis based on this year's Cham experience. Some of it a surprise even to me.
Photo courtesy of Ally Swinton, his Nomic with a C/T hammer, solo on the North Face of the Midi
The majority of the use is from the US and Canada followed closely by the UK and then virtually every alpine country in the world follows.
The US numbers would seem to be a given. I post enough on Canadian and the UK climbing web sites that it isn't a surprise there. The rest of the traffic is.
I hope those that already know this will pardon me restating the obvious for us in NA.
Last year a couple of friends asked me how to better learn "alpinism". What ever that means to you. For many here in the NW that might mean climbing Ptarmiganm ridge as the ultimate goal or the North face on Mt Temple in the Rockies. For others the Cassin on Denali. Big jump between the three.
And any one of them worthy goals.
When I look back at 40 years of alpine climbing the one place that defines the sport and generally the climbers I admire it is Chamonix. Climbs like the MacIntyre-Colton on the Grand Jorasses definealpinism to me.
There are a couple dozen climbers I suspect in Chamonix-Courmayeur area (or who climb there on a regular basis) that we have never heard of, that have done more hard alpine climbing thananyonefrom the US, past or present.
Bold statement, I know.
But then, do you know the guy who not only broke Ueli Steck's speed record on the Ginat this winter and carried skis up and over while doing it? Yes. alpine climbing is all about conditions. And the Ginat had steps up it earlier in the in the winter. But still...anyone know this guy or his time?
Chamonix is a big and complexarea, has an amazing amount of climbing, (more than any one person will ever do in a life time) and super easy access (but not as easy as it first appears). Generally you will be climbing above 11,000 feet if you want to climb on the bigger faces. And best of all the rock is stellar in comparison to Canadian limestone and the weather stunning in clarity if rather harsh (Alaska harsh) in the storm cycles when they do arrive. Nothing like it for terrainin North America outside Alaska.
Bottom line here? If you want to learn what thestate of alpine climbing is in the world today...or get better at your own alpine climbing in the shortest amount of time involved, you simply must climb (and you mustski) in Chamonix.
Lots of places to rock climb in the world. Yosemite one of the best. Just as many of us have learned a lot in Yosemite it isn't the end all to rock climbing. Close may :) It might well be the one destination you must make it to if you rock climb. Chamonix is the one place you must visit if you alpine climb.
Take a look at Colin Haley's blog during March and April over the last few years to put the climbing access and skiing into perspective.
http://colinhaley.blogspot.com//04/back-in-chamonix.html
I have a few months worth of writing and opinions to catch up on. Most of thatis based on this year's Cham experience. Some of it a surprise even to me.
Friday, May 18, 2012
The Estate of John Rupert :: Goods and Chattels
The will of John Rupert dated October 17, 1828 was admitted to probate in Columbiana County, Ohio in August of 1831. The appraisers were appointed on September 3, 1831 and an inventory was submitted to the executors on that date. These documents are of importance because they place John Rupert in Hanover township. I'm not sure that this is a complete inventory, because the sale bill seems to have more items. It is possible that some pages were missing when the estate papers were microfilmed.
Appointment of Administrators of the estate of John Rupart. Packet 1439. Family History Library microfilm 2032592.
State of Ohio
Columbiana County
Before me Michael Arter a Justice of the peace in and for said county personally came Philip Andrew Peter Guisinger David Wiley appraisers of the estate of John Rupert late of Hanover Township in said county deceased and were sworn well and truly to apprais all the goods and Chattles of said estate which shall be presented to them for appraisement, and also to set off to the widow of said deceased such possessions or other property as they shall think reasonable for the support of herself and children twelve months from the time of the death of the said deceased.
Given under my hand this 3d day of September 1831
Michael Arter Justice of the peace
Inventory of the estate of John Rupart. Packet 1439.
“A true and accurate inventory of the goods and chattels of the estate of John Rupert late of Hanover township, deceased presented to us the undersigned appraisers of said estate, by Conrad Yarien & David Ehrhart, executors thereof, the 3d day of September 1831.”
Appointment of Administrators of the estate of John Rupart. Packet 1439. Family History Library microfilm 2032592.
State of Ohio
Columbiana County
Before me Michael Arter a Justice of the peace in and for said county personally came Philip Andrew Peter Guisinger David Wiley appraisers of the estate of John Rupert late of Hanover Township in said county deceased and were sworn well and truly to apprais all the goods and Chattles of said estate which shall be presented to them for appraisement, and also to set off to the widow of said deceased such possessions or other property as they shall think reasonable for the support of herself and children twelve months from the time of the death of the said deceased.
Given under my hand this 3d day of September 1831
Michael Arter Justice of the peace
Inventory of the estate of John Rupart. Packet 1439.
“A true and accurate inventory of the goods and chattels of the estate of John Rupert late of Hanover township, deceased presented to us the undersigned appraisers of said estate, by Conrad Yarien & David Ehrhart, executors thereof, the 3d day of September 1831.”
one man's saddle - - 1.00 one wheel & Reel - - 2.50 one churn - - 1.00 one shovel, axe, &c. - - 2.00 one [?] kettle [?] - - 1.50 a lot of chissels - - 0.25 a lot of Iron, &c. - - 0.75 one hammer, anvil, &c. - - 0.50 one Kettle - - 1.50 one Scythe - - 0.37 ½ one Salt barrel - - 1.25 a lot of tubs and barrels - - 1.50 a lot of Tubs - - 0.75 a lot of Cradles [?] - - 0.75 A lot of Tubs - - 0.12 ½ A lot of Corn - - 0.25 One heiffer - - 6.00 one windmill - - 5.00 one dunghook & pitchfork - - 0.37 one Salt barrel - - 0.12 ½ A lot of wheat – 10.00 a lot of rye - - 3.25 A lot of oats – - 2.25 A quantity of Hay - - 4.00 Shovel & tongs - - 0.50 Two pot racks - - 1.50 one clock - - 2.50 one Cooking glass - - 0.50 a pair of Cards [?] - - 0.25 one chest - - 1.00 one table - - 1.00 a pair of irons - - 0.50 one bed - - 4.00 | Dresser ware - - 4.00 one iron pot, $c. - - 2.50 Pewter ware - - 3.00 4 Chairs - - 0.50 one Cow bell - - 0.75 A quantity of Rye - - 2.50 a tub of wheat - - 2.00 2 barrels - - 0.25 7 bags - - 2.00 Corn in the ground - - 5.00 Cow Chains - - 1.00 Half bushel, &c &c - - 1.37 ½ A ½ pair of Steelyards - - 0.75 one griddle - - 1.00 one adze and basket - - 0.50 one spinning wheel - - 1.00 one trunk - - 0.16 ¼ one Rig [?] - - 0.50 one hackle - - 1.00 Cash on hand - - 12.12 ½ Philip Andrew David Wiley Peter Guisinger |
Saturday, May 12, 2012
Campobello Island :: The Roosevelt Cottage
Thursday, September 20th - - The Roosevelt Campobello International Park was created in 1964 as a memorial to Franklin Delano Roosevelt who spent summers on Campobello Island from the time he was a year old in 1883 until he was stricken with polio in 1921. FDR last visited Campobello in 1939 but Eleanor and the children returned often, through the early 1960s.
The view of the FDR cottage from the visitor center.
The visitor center has a 15-minute film about the Roosevelt's and Campobello Island as well as several exhibit areas. All are worth spending the time to view.
This little fenced-in area was identified as the "Best Photo Area" and I would imagine just about every visitor to the FDR cottage has taken a photo from this spot... including me.
It does make for a pretty picture, doesn't it?
I did not take any photos of the interior. There are 34 rooms furnished with ordinary, every-day items that were used by the Roosevelt family. Nothing ostentatious or fancy, rather more of a practical and utilitarian nature with an emphasis on comfort and simplicity. That, in itself, was impressive. The rooms have been restored with their original furnishings though the wallpapers are reproductions. The tour of the home is self-guided with docents available to answer questions about the house, its furnishings, and the family.
Later in the day, I took a drive along the carriage roads. Unlike those built by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. at Acadia National Park, these roads can be used by motorized vehicles.
According to one of the brochures, very little of the forest cover from the Roosevelt era has survived in the 2800 acre park. Apparently, the interim owners (after the Roosevelt family sold the land and before the park was established) logged the island for pulpwood. The area has been allowed to regenerate. I saw very few large trees on my drive through the forests.
The Herring Cove Provincial Park borders the Roosevelt Campobello International Park. We stayed at the Herring Cove Campground, which was quite nice and reasonably priced. The two parks take up roughly the first third to almost half of Campobello Island. The rest of the island is privately owned by the 1100 or so residents.
The view of the FDR cottage from the visitor center.
The visitor center has a 15-minute film about the Roosevelt's and Campobello Island as well as several exhibit areas. All are worth spending the time to view.
This little fenced-in area was identified as the "Best Photo Area" and I would imagine just about every visitor to the FDR cottage has taken a photo from this spot... including me.
It does make for a pretty picture, doesn't it?
I did not take any photos of the interior. There are 34 rooms furnished with ordinary, every-day items that were used by the Roosevelt family. Nothing ostentatious or fancy, rather more of a practical and utilitarian nature with an emphasis on comfort and simplicity. That, in itself, was impressive. The rooms have been restored with their original furnishings though the wallpapers are reproductions. The tour of the home is self-guided with docents available to answer questions about the house, its furnishings, and the family.
Later in the day, I took a drive along the carriage roads. Unlike those built by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. at Acadia National Park, these roads can be used by motorized vehicles.
According to one of the brochures, very little of the forest cover from the Roosevelt era has survived in the 2800 acre park. Apparently, the interim owners (after the Roosevelt family sold the land and before the park was established) logged the island for pulpwood. The area has been allowed to regenerate. I saw very few large trees on my drive through the forests.
The Herring Cove Provincial Park borders the Roosevelt Campobello International Park. We stayed at the Herring Cove Campground, which was quite nice and reasonably priced. The two parks take up roughly the first third to almost half of Campobello Island. The rest of the island is privately owned by the 1100 or so residents.
Monday, May 7, 2012
Jennifer
Our mission statement here at jjobrien climbing & style is to go where other style reporters fear to tread.
When Jennifer's high-style polish met Slider Wall's legendary trachytefriction, jjobrien was there to bring back the look.
The instagram post that caught the eye of Marketing Managementat Lorna Jane.
The camera lovesLorne jane.
Follow me on instagramat johnjobrien.
That's right, no service where I live, my battery is flat and I lock the screen rotation thing.
The poster shot.
jj
When Jennifer's high-style polish met Slider Wall's legendary trachytefriction, jjobrien was there to bring back the look.
The instagram post that caught the eye of Marketing Managementat Lorna Jane.
The camera lovesLorne jane.
Follow me on instagramat johnjobrien.
That's right, no service where I live, my battery is flat and I lock the screen rotation thing.
The poster shot.
jj
Sunday, May 6, 2012
I'm a ;
Lori Thornton started this little meme off with her post Which Punctuation Mark Are You?
What Punctuation Mark Are You?
You Are a Semi-Colon |
You are elegant, understated, and subtle in your communication. You're very smart (and you know it), but you don't often showcase your brilliance. Instead, you carefully construct your arguments, ideas, and theories – until they are bulletproof. You see your words as an expression of yourself, and you are careful not to waste them. You friends see you as enlightened, logical, and shrewd. (But what you're saying often goes right over their heads. You excel in: The Arts You get along best with: The Colon |
What Punctuation Mark Are You?
Saturday, May 5, 2012
Thursday, May 3, 2012
Cliff Ice at High Falls
Today felt more like a spring day than a December day, with temperatures approaching 40 degrees and rain falling all afternoon. The mild day made for a pleasant walk in the woods (well, before the rain started it was pleasant). I decided to take advantage of the warm weather and took a walk to High Falls on the Pigeon River in Grand Portage State Park. Along the walk to the falls there were tracks everywhere... from squirrels, birds, rabbits and mink to dogs (accompanying their human companions on their own walks to the falls). The cliff that High Falls drops over was amazing, with incredible ice formations everywhere along the rocks that make up the face of the cliff. This particular composition was just to the right of the main flow of water as it drops over the falls. This was taken with my 100-400mm lens fully extended at 400mm.
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
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