Padre Island National SeashoreCorpus Christi, Texas
February 16th & 17th, ..
Monday, December 30, 2013
Wednesday, December 25, 2013
Eek! A Shriek!
Some bird nicknames are widespread -- most birders have probably heard the Yellow-rumped warbler called a Butterbutt. (Check the bottom pic here to see why.)
But I think it's fairly common for birding friends to invent their own nicknames too. Most of ours are silly mispronunciations... King Burger (Kingbird), Rose-Chested Goosebeak (Rose-breasted Grosbeak), Buffalohead (Bufflehead), Gerbie (Grebe).
Often the bird's sound, or its description, substitutes for its name: "Hey, I heard a witchety witchety!" (Common Yellowthroat). "Which Nuthatch was it, a yank-yank or a squeaky toy?" (White-breasted or Brown-headed).
Sometimes it's just the intonation. A Frigatebird is still a Frigatebird, but must be mentioned as though it's being yelled at top voice, in memory of a particular enthusiast who did that every time one was sighted.
When you're unsure of exactly which hawk it is way up there, it's probably the (non-existant but handsome sounding) "Broad-shouldered Hawk", originally an accidental mish-mash of the Broad-winged and Red-shouldered Hawks.
Once my sister's husband, a new birder at the time, was trying to call our attention to a bird he couldn't quite remember the name of. And that's how Shriek was born (for Loggerhead Shrike).
All of that to say...
The other day I heard a bird noise I wasn't familiar with. I grabbed the binoculars, and...
Eek! It's a Shriek!
A horrible picture in the bright sun, but a Shriek!
We used to see Shrikes all the time but this is the first one I've seen in years. They seem to be in drastic decline throughout their range. I hope this one will stick around and be a regular visitor to the yard. He's welcome to all the bugs, mice, and voles he can carry.
-----
Loggerhead Shrike (Lanius ludovicianus).
My old birding teacher described them as looking like "Mockingbirds gone bad"!
-----
Updated:
My sister emailed to remind me that I had forgotten about the Shawshank Hawk! (a.k.a. the Sharp-shinned hawk, for the less cinematically inclined.)
But I think it's fairly common for birding friends to invent their own nicknames too. Most of ours are silly mispronunciations... King Burger (Kingbird), Rose-Chested Goosebeak (Rose-breasted Grosbeak), Buffalohead (Bufflehead), Gerbie (Grebe).
Often the bird's sound, or its description, substitutes for its name: "Hey, I heard a witchety witchety!" (Common Yellowthroat). "Which Nuthatch was it, a yank-yank or a squeaky toy?" (White-breasted or Brown-headed).
Sometimes it's just the intonation. A Frigatebird is still a Frigatebird, but must be mentioned as though it's being yelled at top voice, in memory of a particular enthusiast who did that every time one was sighted.
When you're unsure of exactly which hawk it is way up there, it's probably the (non-existant but handsome sounding) "Broad-shouldered Hawk", originally an accidental mish-mash of the Broad-winged and Red-shouldered Hawks.
Once my sister's husband, a new birder at the time, was trying to call our attention to a bird he couldn't quite remember the name of. And that's how Shriek was born (for Loggerhead Shrike).
All of that to say...
The other day I heard a bird noise I wasn't familiar with. I grabbed the binoculars, and...
Eek! It's a Shriek!
A horrible picture in the bright sun, but a Shriek!
We used to see Shrikes all the time but this is the first one I've seen in years. They seem to be in drastic decline throughout their range. I hope this one will stick around and be a regular visitor to the yard. He's welcome to all the bugs, mice, and voles he can carry.
-----
Loggerhead Shrike (Lanius ludovicianus).
My old birding teacher described them as looking like "Mockingbirds gone bad"!
-----
Updated:
My sister emailed to remind me that I had forgotten about the Shawshank Hawk! (a.k.a. the Sharp-shinned hawk, for the less cinematically inclined.)
Tuesday, December 24, 2013
Under the Rock
This is the photo I took of the crawl space that goes all the way under the huge rock. It is next to the 'cave' in the above shot.
Monday, December 23, 2013
Covering Distance
Last week I did two 100 mile rides several days apart. The first I rode on my own bike, with my camera, stopping along the way. That was really nice. The second I did on an unfamiliar demo bike, riding the course straight through except for a lunch stop. That was really nice too. The rides didn't take all day and they didn't wipe me out, allowing me to work before and after.Had time been no object, I felt as if I could have kept going.
To me, it is this private moment of realisation that "I have it in me" to do this kind of distance, casually - that feels like an accomplishment. More so than, say, an official brevet finish. It is not that I don't value organised events and their objective measures of performance. It's more that when doing an event, I already know that I can do it; I would not attempt it otherwise with all the logistics involved. In that sense, it feels not unlike taking a test based on material I've already learned. It's the learning itself that's thrilling. That "A-ha!" moment. Doing well on the test? It's nice, and often necessary. But it's not the same as the learning itself.
Maybe this line of thinking just means that I am hopelessly non-competitive. Or maybe it is simply not a good analogy. In fact almost certainly not. But there's a grain of something in it, somewhere.
Covering new distance, covering new material. And along the way that feeling of having truly grasped, understood, internalised something new - something that had previously seemed unattainable.
A Negro Man Called Thomas...
Several years ago I was corresponding with Carol Dorward, a distant cousin in my Goodrich line. She is a descendant of Price Goodrich while I am descended from his sister, Abigail (Goodrich) Joslin. They are the children of Bela and Sally (Church) Goodrich. Bela is a son of John and Abigail (Price) Goodrich.
John Goodrich was born in 1754 Wethersfield, Hartford County, Connecticut and lived there until about 1807 when he moved to Worthington, Franklin County, Ohio. From about the late 1790s until early 1806 he was known as John 3rd since there were two older men in Wethersfield by the name of John Goodrich. In April 1806 one of the older men died and John 3rd became John 2nd. Needless to say, this does create some “issues” with researching “my” John Goodrich.
One of the items that Carol sent me was a transcription of a brief biography about “our” John Goodrich from an article on Christ Church of Worthington. Among the information provided in that article was the following statement: “On Dec. 8, 1799, he bought a Negro man 'Tom,' the bill of sale being recorded on the Wethersfield land records.”
I know we are not supposed to judge our ancestors by today's standards, but I was more than a little surprised to learn about this “transaction” and decided to find the deed record. I'm glad that I did...
Wethersfield Deeds, volume 21 page 528.
Dated December 18, 1799. Recorded January 8, 1800.
Family History Microfilm 0,006,000 viewed February 13, ...
Wethersfield. December 18th, AD 1799.
Whereas I John Goodrich the third of said Wethersfield have this day purchased, bought & received of James Mitchell of said Wethersfield a Negro man called & known by the name of Thomas or Tom, between fifty & Sixty years of age & have gotten a Bill of Sale of sd Negro, to have & hold him said Tom during his Natural Life, and said Thomas or Tom has well served & Indemnified me, in Emancipating & setting him free, I do therefore for the Consideration of ten Dollars received to my full Satisfaction of said Thomas or Tom, sell convey & makeover, give & grant to said Thomas or Tom, all my Right & title to & Interest in his the said Thomas's Service, during his Natural Life, and whereas said Thomas is too far advanced in years to be Emancipated & set free, according to the Statute in such case provided, was to cause him to fall upon the Town in case of want & Sickness, yet so far as relates to any control over him, he is hereby Emancipated and free to all Intents & purposes as fully & absolutely as tho he had become a freeman of this State, & he the said Tom is forever, or during his natural, to enjoy all the Rights & priviledges of a free Citizen, as far as I can Effect both, from any Claim I have or might have or any of my Heirs or assigns. As Witness my hand and Seal the day & date above.
John Goodrich 3d. {Seal}
Signed, Sealed, & delivered in presence of – John Marsh, Stephen M. Mitchell.
=+==+==+==+==+=
Of course, as often happens, this document brings up more questions.We'll probably never know the underlying reason for his actions but it appears that John purchased and emancipated Thomas on the same day.
John Goodrich was born in 1754 Wethersfield, Hartford County, Connecticut and lived there until about 1807 when he moved to Worthington, Franklin County, Ohio. From about the late 1790s until early 1806 he was known as John 3rd since there were two older men in Wethersfield by the name of John Goodrich. In April 1806 one of the older men died and John 3rd became John 2nd. Needless to say, this does create some “issues” with researching “my” John Goodrich.
One of the items that Carol sent me was a transcription of a brief biography about “our” John Goodrich from an article on Christ Church of Worthington. Among the information provided in that article was the following statement: “On Dec. 8, 1799, he bought a Negro man 'Tom,' the bill of sale being recorded on the Wethersfield land records.”
I know we are not supposed to judge our ancestors by today's standards, but I was more than a little surprised to learn about this “transaction” and decided to find the deed record. I'm glad that I did...
Wethersfield Deeds, volume 21 page 528.
Dated December 18, 1799. Recorded January 8, 1800.
Family History Microfilm 0,006,000 viewed February 13, ...
Wethersfield. December 18th, AD 1799.
Whereas I John Goodrich the third of said Wethersfield have this day purchased, bought & received of James Mitchell of said Wethersfield a Negro man called & known by the name of Thomas or Tom, between fifty & Sixty years of age & have gotten a Bill of Sale of sd Negro, to have & hold him said Tom during his Natural Life, and said Thomas or Tom has well served & Indemnified me, in Emancipating & setting him free, I do therefore for the Consideration of ten Dollars received to my full Satisfaction of said Thomas or Tom, sell convey & makeover, give & grant to said Thomas or Tom, all my Right & title to & Interest in his the said Thomas's Service, during his Natural Life, and whereas said Thomas is too far advanced in years to be Emancipated & set free, according to the Statute in such case provided, was to cause him to fall upon the Town in case of want & Sickness, yet so far as relates to any control over him, he is hereby Emancipated and free to all Intents & purposes as fully & absolutely as tho he had become a freeman of this State, & he the said Tom is forever, or during his natural, to enjoy all the Rights & priviledges of a free Citizen, as far as I can Effect both, from any Claim I have or might have or any of my Heirs or assigns. As Witness my hand and Seal the day & date above.
John Goodrich 3d. {Seal}
Signed, Sealed, & delivered in presence of – John Marsh, Stephen M. Mitchell.
=+==+==+==+==+=
Of course, as often happens, this document brings up more questions.We'll probably never know the underlying reason for his actions but it appears that John purchased and emancipated Thomas on the same day.
Friday, December 20, 2013
OUT
Tuffee knows when I tell her OUT she is to get out of the horse pen. This is her slipping out the gate. She knows how to push it open just enough she can get out.
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Solstice!
Soon the longest day of the year will be upon us. For climbers this is significant not only because there are a lot of festivals, parties and music happenings throughout the area, but also because this is the time of the year when the long daylight hours allow us to climb headlamp free for many, many hours.
This year the actual Solstice is on June 20 at 23:09, however its effects will be noticed for a much longer period of time and are in fact currently being observed. Since the 20th is a weekday you can actually make it to the Fremont Fair and the associated parties going on this weekend, get down, recover and STILL get out in the wilderness or wherever else you enjoy being for the actual day of Solstice. (Just assuming wilderness is your thing since this is a blog about climbing Mount Rainier.)The forecast for the upcoming week looks like a mixed bag with some sun and clouds, but no major storm events are on the horizon. Hopefully we are done with those for a while. Climbers have recently been summitting via all the standard routes, so check out the updates for the DC, Emmons, and Liberty Ridge among others. Don't forget your sunblock and stay hydrated out there!
Ceci N'est Pas une Bicyclette: a Peek at the Brooks Two Wheel Display
Has anyone else noticed that mystery bike Brooks of England uses to display their wares? You know the one - It's army green and you can see glimpses of it in their catalogues and advertisements, though never enough to identify what the bike is? Turns out, Harris Cyclery now has one of these up on display. Last time I was there, they were kind enough to get it down and even let me drag it outside for some photos - extracting a promise that I wouldn't attempt to ride it.
Because you see, it is not a bicycle. It is a two wheel display ("Warning: Do not ride!") What makes it unridable is mainly the lack of brakes, though I suppose there might be other issues. It felt very bike-like to roll.
Usually this bicycle is laden with panniers and stuff in the basket, so being able to examine it bare was quite a treat. It is an odd bike with no manufacturer markings I could find.Lugged steel frame with unicrown fork. Same colour of powdercoat as the Bella Ciao I used to have. Step-through frame, the top tube at a slightly shallower angle that the downtube. Fenders, rack and chaincase powdercoated to match. And of course Brooks saddle, grips and basket.
The Brooks advertising panel is painted on a thin sheet of metal and affixed between the top and down tubes.Notice that the clips holding the banner in place are part of the frame. The head lugs are unusually filigree-esque for a transport bike, but there is nothing fancy about the frame otherwise.
The rear rack resembles the rack on the Bobbin Birdie.
The chaincase looks identical to those used by Abici.
The wire and wood Hoxton basket affixes to the handlebars via a quick-release system.
The leather washers on the handle are a nice touch.
The obvious benefit of the Brooks "Two Wheel Display" is that it allows them to demonstrate their products on an actual bike, without associating themselves with any particular bicycle manufacturer. I do wish the bike was ridable though. In general, it would be neat if bikes with advertising panels came back into style: Local shops could use them for errands, advertising their business along the way. I still don't know what exactly the Brooks bike is, when it appeared, how many of them are out there, etc. - but it was fun to examine it up close.
Sunday, December 15, 2013
Cup and Saucer
This cup and saucer is marked on the bottom that it belonged to my grandmother, Alma Coe Green Williams. It also has a sticky tag on bottom that says 'Made in Japan'. I have no idea of it's age but I really like it. Notice the saucer has cut outs around the edge.Saturday, December 14, 2013
Aurora Surprise!
I had gotten home from work yesterday evening and was pretty tired so after an early dinner I laid down for a nap. I woke at 9:00 PM and decided to check spaceweather.com to see if there were any CME's (Coronal Mass Ejections from the sun) recorded during the day. To my surprise, there was a fresh Aurora picture and news of a CME that hit our atmosphere earlier that evening! I then checked the Auroral oval and the kp index which indicated STORM level, so within a few minutes my photography gear was loaded in the truck and off I went to do some shooting.
I spent the next 6 hours making images of the Northern Lights. I went to several different locations and recorded several hundred images throughout the night, including some sequences that I combined into a timelapse video. The most intense and colorful lights occurred between 2:00 and 3:00 AM, with pillars of light dancing sideways across the sky, dominated ultimately by some deep red hues. It was a fascinating night of picture-taking and Aurora-watching!
Wednesday, December 11, 2013
Mt. Si
Mt. Si is the big hill, with the rocky top, right behind North Bend. For the most part, it is a hike on a dirt trail in the shade of tall evergreens. There is an inviting feature at the top called the Haystack. It consists of a few hundred feet of easy rock scrambling. It is fun to weave your own route to the top. For some reason it seems steeper on the way down.
The clouds rolled in as we reached the top. Pictured are: Dennis, Sabrina, Dave, Cody, Doug, Bethany, Danielle and Jim.
There were these big metal vases or pots by the entrance to one shop.
Monday, December 9, 2013
Polar Circus Route Description - photo essay
Icefield's Parkway - Polar Circus
"Polar Circus is a popular and classic ice climb located in the Canadian Rockies off the Icefields Parkway. Climbers from throughout the world come to Canada to test their skills (and empty their bladders, sometimes unintentionally) on this incredible, 700 meter tiered frozen waterfall. Originally rated Grade VI, the first ascent of this route required eight days, fixed ropes, and substantial aid on the steepest sections. In what was to become a typical situation on this beautiful wall, the climb was crowded even during the first ascent, with two parties competing for the prize. The second ascent party, narrowly missing being the first to bag this great line, eliminated all but five meters of aid from the route. With the evolution of modern tools and techniques, "Circus" has since been downgraded to Grade V, WI5, and is typically climbed by competent teams in a long day from the Icefields Parkway."
With a 5 minute approach from the road this is one of the WI2+pitches that start up theCirrus Mtn Gully aka theCanadian water ice classic...."Polar Circus". Below: looking up the first of thethose early easy pitches in early Jan. conditions. The perfect warm up for the climbingto come. 1st step on the approach.
A bit more of easy climbing(appro. 200m) leads you to the first steep section of water ice. 2nd step on the approach below. And then yet some more rambling to get to the base of the first steep pitch on the route.
Below is going up the gully and turning right to start the first steep pitch. Chain and boltrap anchors on the right at the top of the pitch.
Below, looking down from the start of that pitch.
Polar Circus '80, in easy ice conditions...the first steep bit that blocks access to the upper gully. Depending on conditions any where from WI3+ to WI 4.
The same pitch in Feb and a bit steeper and more sustained.
Same pitch early Jan and much steeper than it first appears.
Late in the season,with safe avi conditionsand on warm, soft ice, Polar Circus can bean easy (WI4+/ 5-), and super classic one day ice climb. With an short approach and quick descent it is oneto go back to again and again.
The first snow section below:
Below is the last section of ice (WI2/3) before the snow gully and short ice steps below the Pencil.
On top of that pitch, again 1980 with bivy gear (the 80/81 winterseason turned Polar Circusfrom an over night climbto a one day route). This is atthe beginning of the long snow gully below the Pencil.
And the Pencil's snow gully below:
Below, turning the Pencil (which is obvious, directly above) on it's right hand side.
This is looking down the snow gully section just after turning the easy ice at the base of the Pencil which is on the right of this picture and just out of sight. Climber's right, then leftand up hill of this pictureis the avi prone slope.
Turning the Pencil just below and gaining the avi slope. Short bitsof up to WI4 and a lot of easy ice steps and easy snow terrain are below this. Spectacular position! The avi slope goes up and out to the right and then back left, up and then left again into the upper bowl above. That final level traverse back into the basin and the upper tiers can be really scary because of the sun exposure and snow conditions.
John Lauchlan in this picture and belowthearea where he was likelyswept away in an avalanche while trying to make the first solo ascent in the early winter of 1982.
Ray Jotterand photo 1979
The unformed Pencil's bottom stub.
Partially formed Pencil in early Jan.
Looking up from the firstright hand sectionof snow traverse above the Pencil. At the trees in the picture the track jogs back left, up and left againinto the huge upper bowl.
Below is the upper left hand traverse which can be a little spooky if the snow conditions are bad.
In thepicture below we are belaying the entire traverse..which is a new one for me. Likely we shouldn't have been there at all in those snow conditons. We made do.
Get there early while the traverseis still in the shade!
The last four pitches of the climb (or 3 rope stretching pitches with a 60 or 70mrope and some imagination) and for a strong party these might be the only pitchesyou rope up on in good conditions. In early Jan of '75 the first ascent partyclimbed 14 roped pitches of ice and taken 8 days up and down. Water fall climbing was stillnew and nothing this long or this cold had been done before. Charlie Porter, the Burgess Twins and Bugs McKeith were some of the most accomplished climbers of their generation at the time. The second ascent lead by Canadian, Laurie Skreslet, literally following in the 1st ascent teamsfoot steps, donein two days and all but the last short bit of itfree.
Huge admiration for both team'simagination,tenacity and skills. Ice climbing changed faster than anyone ever thought possiblebetween 1975 and 1980.
The upper bowl from lower on the route.
The upper bowl when you turnthe corner on the snow traverse. Good look at the first fun pitch on the first tier of the 3 uppertiers. The upper tiers are made up ofthis pitch (70M+), the Ribbon pitch and the final head wall of ice (2 pitches).
Below, the bivy cave used by allthe early ascents up to 1980.
Below, theRibbon pitch.
Difficulty on this pitch depends on the amount of ice some what but more importantly what time you get there, the temps and how wet the ice is. This pitch caneasily be running with water and nothing but rotten ice.
You are looking at entirelast set of tiers in this picture. The three climbers at the right side of the ice are at the base of the Ribbon pitch in fat, lateFeb '10 conditions.
Parts of the the last longpitch (or two short pitches)are shown here on the last tier. Fixed anchors on the right with a decent belay platform and rap chains. Climber here is on the last bit of steep ice and generally the crux of the route.
The final short pitch to finish the climb..steeper than it looks and generally sun rotted ice by the time you get on it. Perfect finish to a great climb! Picture is taken for the chained belay anchor and rap point.
For shortened view of the last tier. Chains on the rock are climber's right with a good ledge,one small stepabove the climber in the picture. The belay becomes pretty obviouswhen you are there. More so than in thispicture.
Looking back down the final pitch just below the last set of rap chains. Incredible piece of ice!
The always terrifing, free hanging rap off the Pencil on the way down. And not always the easiest rap station to find in the dark if it has been snowing. My suggestion is when in doubt "follow the water course" into thegully. You want thethird one on the far right. From the upper tier you walk to the first station(fixed pins and tat) that are on the left wall (looking down) where it narrows and steepens. The second setare fixed pins and tat again, this timeon the right hand side of the gully when facing down hill. The wrong gullies start outmuch steeper than the correct rap line. If it seems too weird and scary go north a gully...or two. You want teh tird gull on the north side of the bench.
A wonderful climb to be done over and over again just for the fun of it!
Polar Circus topo courtesy of Joe Palma copyright 2007
Some chainachors were replaced and new ones installed in the spring/fall of
Dbl click to enlarge the topo and check out the rap line, depending on conditions and daylightif might be a little confusing first time up the route.
Another topo here worth looking at as well:
http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/climbs/polarcir/topo.pdf
Gear Notes:
These days all but the lastrap anchorare bolts, fixed chains or pins and tat. You will rap straight over the Pencil so be careful there of you or your rope knocking anything down. 70m ropes are really much easier but 60m ropes will work as well. Take some tat for V threads but make sure someone hasn't beat you to it already. V threads get burried quicky on the upper pitches where you might need them so come prepared.
Be really careful on the avi slop above the Pencil...it has been fatal. It has three sections, a right hand traverse, a left hand traverse and short up hill and a final long left hand traverse which is a good sized slope show in the pictures above. A slides here will dump debrisinto the canyon below the Pencil.
Avi danger in particular on this route can be very high. Even small slidescoming out of the upper bowl while on the last 3 tiers will be serious.
Worth a look at the photos here:
http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ab/banff/visit/visit7a12/visit7a12c-3/Polar%20Circus.aspx
and no the photos arenot photo shopped.....
A dozen screws should be plenty for anyone capable of finishing the climb. In good conditions plan on anywhere from 5 to 3 roped pitches depending on the length of your rope and a lot of easy ice either soloed or climbed together.
A early start will get you off before the south facing avi slopes heat up. Or better yet do it on a snowy, cloudy and cold day. You can avoid the avi danger and soft, rotten ice on the crux pitch if you do without the sun. Don't forget 3 or 4 long screws just for that rotten ice late in the day.
8 or 9 hrs round trip, car to car, these days is a reasonable time with good ice and snow conditions. 5 or 6 hrs of climbing. A hook fest on hammered out ice will make it quicker. A lot of snow to break trail through or really cold, new ice canmake it a "slightly" longer day.There is a reason the climb is rated a V for over all grade and time.
Approach Notes:
On a good day 10 minutes up a boot packed trail from the road. Cowboy-up and start on the first easy ice available instead of walking up the snow slope to the left and beginning of the first WI4 pitch.
"Polar Circus is a popular and classic ice climb located in the Canadian Rockies off the Icefields Parkway. Climbers from throughout the world come to Canada to test their skills (and empty their bladders, sometimes unintentionally) on this incredible, 700 meter tiered frozen waterfall. Originally rated Grade VI, the first ascent of this route required eight days, fixed ropes, and substantial aid on the steepest sections. In what was to become a typical situation on this beautiful wall, the climb was crowded even during the first ascent, with two parties competing for the prize. The second ascent party, narrowly missing being the first to bag this great line, eliminated all but five meters of aid from the route. With the evolution of modern tools and techniques, "Circus" has since been downgraded to Grade V, WI5, and is typically climbed by competent teams in a long day from the Icefields Parkway."
With a 5 minute approach from the road this is one of the WI2+pitches that start up theCirrus Mtn Gully aka theCanadian water ice classic...."Polar Circus". Below: looking up the first of thethose early easy pitches in early Jan. conditions. The perfect warm up for the climbingto come. 1st step on the approach.
A bit more of easy climbing(appro. 200m) leads you to the first steep section of water ice. 2nd step on the approach below. And then yet some more rambling to get to the base of the first steep pitch on the route.
Below is going up the gully and turning right to start the first steep pitch. Chain and boltrap anchors on the right at the top of the pitch.
Below, looking down from the start of that pitch.
Polar Circus '80, in easy ice conditions...the first steep bit that blocks access to the upper gully. Depending on conditions any where from WI3+ to WI 4.
The same pitch in Feb and a bit steeper and more sustained.
Same pitch early Jan and much steeper than it first appears.
Late in the season,with safe avi conditionsand on warm, soft ice, Polar Circus can bean easy (WI4+/ 5-), and super classic one day ice climb. With an short approach and quick descent it is oneto go back to again and again.
The first snow section below:
Below is the last section of ice (WI2/3) before the snow gully and short ice steps below the Pencil.
On top of that pitch, again 1980 with bivy gear (the 80/81 winterseason turned Polar Circusfrom an over night climbto a one day route). This is atthe beginning of the long snow gully below the Pencil.
And the Pencil's snow gully below:
Below, turning the Pencil (which is obvious, directly above) on it's right hand side.
This is looking down the snow gully section just after turning the easy ice at the base of the Pencil which is on the right of this picture and just out of sight. Climber's right, then leftand up hill of this pictureis the avi prone slope.
Turning the Pencil just below and gaining the avi slope. Short bitsof up to WI4 and a lot of easy ice steps and easy snow terrain are below this. Spectacular position! The avi slope goes up and out to the right and then back left, up and then left again into the upper bowl above. That final level traverse back into the basin and the upper tiers can be really scary because of the sun exposure and snow conditions.
John Lauchlan in this picture and belowthearea where he was likelyswept away in an avalanche while trying to make the first solo ascent in the early winter of 1982.
Ray Jotterand photo 1979
The unformed Pencil's bottom stub.
Partially formed Pencil in early Jan.
Looking up from the firstright hand sectionof snow traverse above the Pencil. At the trees in the picture the track jogs back left, up and left againinto the huge upper bowl.
Below is the upper left hand traverse which can be a little spooky if the snow conditions are bad.
In thepicture below we are belaying the entire traverse..which is a new one for me. Likely we shouldn't have been there at all in those snow conditons. We made do.
Get there early while the traverseis still in the shade!
The last four pitches of the climb (or 3 rope stretching pitches with a 60 or 70mrope and some imagination) and for a strong party these might be the only pitchesyou rope up on in good conditions. In early Jan of '75 the first ascent partyclimbed 14 roped pitches of ice and taken 8 days up and down. Water fall climbing was stillnew and nothing this long or this cold had been done before. Charlie Porter, the Burgess Twins and Bugs McKeith were some of the most accomplished climbers of their generation at the time. The second ascent lead by Canadian, Laurie Skreslet, literally following in the 1st ascent teamsfoot steps, donein two days and all but the last short bit of itfree.
Huge admiration for both team'simagination,tenacity and skills. Ice climbing changed faster than anyone ever thought possiblebetween 1975 and 1980.
The upper bowl from lower on the route.
The upper bowl when you turnthe corner on the snow traverse. Good look at the first fun pitch on the first tier of the 3 uppertiers. The upper tiers are made up ofthis pitch (70M+), the Ribbon pitch and the final head wall of ice (2 pitches).
Below, the bivy cave used by allthe early ascents up to 1980.
Below, theRibbon pitch.
Difficulty on this pitch depends on the amount of ice some what but more importantly what time you get there, the temps and how wet the ice is. This pitch caneasily be running with water and nothing but rotten ice.
You are looking at entirelast set of tiers in this picture. The three climbers at the right side of the ice are at the base of the Ribbon pitch in fat, lateFeb '10 conditions.
Parts of the the last longpitch (or two short pitches)are shown here on the last tier. Fixed anchors on the right with a decent belay platform and rap chains. Climber here is on the last bit of steep ice and generally the crux of the route.
The final short pitch to finish the climb..steeper than it looks and generally sun rotted ice by the time you get on it. Perfect finish to a great climb! Picture is taken for the chained belay anchor and rap point.
For shortened view of the last tier. Chains on the rock are climber's right with a good ledge,one small stepabove the climber in the picture. The belay becomes pretty obviouswhen you are there. More so than in thispicture.
Looking back down the final pitch just below the last set of rap chains. Incredible piece of ice!
The always terrifing, free hanging rap off the Pencil on the way down. And not always the easiest rap station to find in the dark if it has been snowing. My suggestion is when in doubt "follow the water course" into thegully. You want thethird one on the far right. From the upper tier you walk to the first station(fixed pins and tat) that are on the left wall (looking down) where it narrows and steepens. The second setare fixed pins and tat again, this timeon the right hand side of the gully when facing down hill. The wrong gullies start outmuch steeper than the correct rap line. If it seems too weird and scary go north a gully...or two. You want teh tird gull on the north side of the bench.
A wonderful climb to be done over and over again just for the fun of it!
Polar Circus topo courtesy of Joe Palma copyright 2007
Some chainachors were replaced and new ones installed in the spring/fall of
Dbl click to enlarge the topo and check out the rap line, depending on conditions and daylightif might be a little confusing first time up the route.
Another topo here worth looking at as well:
http://lamountaineers.org/NAC/browserf/climbs/polarcir/topo.pdf
Gear Notes:
These days all but the lastrap anchorare bolts, fixed chains or pins and tat. You will rap straight over the Pencil so be careful there of you or your rope knocking anything down. 70m ropes are really much easier but 60m ropes will work as well. Take some tat for V threads but make sure someone hasn't beat you to it already. V threads get burried quicky on the upper pitches where you might need them so come prepared.
Be really careful on the avi slop above the Pencil...it has been fatal. It has three sections, a right hand traverse, a left hand traverse and short up hill and a final long left hand traverse which is a good sized slope show in the pictures above. A slides here will dump debrisinto the canyon below the Pencil.
Avi danger in particular on this route can be very high. Even small slidescoming out of the upper bowl while on the last 3 tiers will be serious.
Worth a look at the photos here:
http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ab/banff/visit/visit7a12/visit7a12c-3/Polar%20Circus.aspx
and no the photos arenot photo shopped.....
A dozen screws should be plenty for anyone capable of finishing the climb. In good conditions plan on anywhere from 5 to 3 roped pitches depending on the length of your rope and a lot of easy ice either soloed or climbed together.
A early start will get you off before the south facing avi slopes heat up. Or better yet do it on a snowy, cloudy and cold day. You can avoid the avi danger and soft, rotten ice on the crux pitch if you do without the sun. Don't forget 3 or 4 long screws just for that rotten ice late in the day.
8 or 9 hrs round trip, car to car, these days is a reasonable time with good ice and snow conditions. 5 or 6 hrs of climbing. A hook fest on hammered out ice will make it quicker. A lot of snow to break trail through or really cold, new ice canmake it a "slightly" longer day.There is a reason the climb is rated a V for over all grade and time.
Approach Notes:
On a good day 10 minutes up a boot packed trail from the road. Cowboy-up and start on the first easy ice available instead of walking up the snow slope to the left and beginning of the first WI4 pitch.
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