Good Skiing and Narada Falls Face Snow Pit

Howdy Everyone!



Afterseveral daysof cooler weather and some precipitation, the mountain has come back out in full sunshine with a good 6" of powder on her flanks. There is some great skiing on the south and west aspects right now; while the eastern aspects are getting crusty.



This weeks snow pit was dug at the top of Narada Falls Face, just below the Steven's Canyon Road. As you can see from the profile, the main layer of concern is between 10 to 20 cm below the surface. Some moderate failuresfor the stability tests indicated that point releases are possible especially on lee slopes. However, no propagation was observed during the stability testing.





CTM(14) @ 12 cm Q3

ECTN(18) @ 12 cm Q3

RB3 @ 12 cm Q2



Keep an eye out for possible point releases on south facing aspects...there's plenty of sluffs coming off all around the Paradise area; especially the face onPanorama Point and the 4th Crossing area.

James Joslin :: 1841 Sale of Land to Lysander

On July 2, 1841 James Joslin and Abigail, his wife, sold 40 acres of the original 80 that he had purchased from the United States on September 20, 1837 in Whitley County, Indiana to Lysander Price Joslin for $50.

The unusual thing about the transaction, at least to me, is that Lysander was only 16 years old at the time of the transaction. Then, three years later, on August 1, 1844 James and Abigail sold the remaining 40 acres (20 acres each) to Edwin M. and Joseph A. Joslin. (Those two records will be posted in the near future.) Edwin was only 14 years old at the time and Joseph was a month shy of 12. Edwin and Joseph each paid $50 for their 20 acres of land. If long time readers think all this sounds a bit familiar, it's because I mentioned these transactions briefly back in October ...

As I said back then, it just makes you wonder what was really going on. There must have been a reason that James and Abigail sold the land to their young sons (presuming that they are their sons) but I doubt that we will ever know why.

For some reason, I always thought that there was a minimum age of 18 or 21 for purchasing land, but apparently there isn't. The only reference I've found to the legal age for buying land was a post on a mailing list that says that a person did not have to be 21 to own land, whether by purchase, grant or inheritance. But, he did have to be 21 to sell it.

My research notes show that Lysander purchased Edwin's 20 acres on January 21, 1851 for $200. Edwin turned 21 the previous December. Joseph sold his 20 acres to Lysander on November 1, 1853 for $300. Joseph had turned 21 in September.

=+==+==+=

Whitley County, Indiana
Deed Book A Page 505
Dated July 2, 1841
Filed June 13th 1842
Recorded June 16, 1842

505

[Written in left hand column] Filed June 13th 1842

This Indenture made this Second day of July in the Year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and forty one by and Between James Joslin and Abigail his wife of the County of Whitley and State of Indiana of the first part and Lysander Price Joslin of the County and State aforesaid of the Second part. Witnesseth that the said party of the first part for and in consideration of the just and lawful sum to them paid of Fifty Dollars the receipt whereof is hereby acknowledged by the said party of the first part hath granted bargained Sold and Conveyed and by these presents doth grant bargain Sell and Convey unto the Said party of the Second part his heirs and assigns forever all the following described premises to wit. The South half of the East half of the North west quarter of Section Twenty five in Township No Thirty two North of Range Eight East Containing forty acres according to the original Survey. To have and to hold the above described premises hereby Sold and Conveyed unto the Said party of the Second part his heirs and assigns forever together with all the hereditament and appurtenances thereunto belonging or in any wise appertaining unto the party of the Second part to his own proper use benefit and behoof. And the Said party of the first part for themselves their heirs executors and administrators hereby covenant to and with the Said party of the Second part his heirs executors administrators and assigns that they the Said party of the first part are the lawful owners of the Said premises and have good right full power and lawful authority to Sell and convey the Same in manner aforesaid that the same are free from all incumbrances and that the Said party of the first part will Forever Warrant and Defend the Same against the claim or claims of all and every person or persons whomsever.

In testimony whereof the Said James Joslin and Abigail his wife have hereunto set their hands and seals the day and Year first above written.

James Joslin {Seal}
Abigail Joslin {Seal}

Signed Sealed and delivered }
In presence of
James Grant
Sarah Ann Pierce

State of Indiana Whitley County } SS

Personally came before me the Subscriber a Justice of the Peace in and for Said County James Joslin and Abigail wife of the Said James Joslin Known to me to be the grantors named in the above Deed of conveyance and acknowledged that they signed and Sealed the Same for the use and purposes therein expressed And the Said Abigail wife of the aforesaid James Joslin being by me examined Seperate and apart from the Said husband acknowledged that She executed the Same freely and without any fear or compulsion from her Said husband.

Given under my hand and Seal this Second day of July in the Year of our Lord one thousand eight hundred and forty one.

James Grant J.P. {seal}
Recorded June 16th 1842

Gunks Routes: No Glow (5.9)

(Photo: My partner A just above the crux on the 5.9 pitch two of No Glow.)

Not far past the Arrow wall, just before CCK, No Glow occupies a part of the Trapps that is crowded with classics. Dick Williams gives the route two stars in his latest guidebook, but it seems to me it is a bit less popular than it ought to be. I reckon this is for two reasons: (1) the first pitch is only 5.4, and (2) the second, crux pitch begins with some R-rated climbing. But these issues shouldn't deter you; No Glow is a really fun climb. Pitch one involves good, typical 5.4-5.5 Gunks face climbing. Pitch two is outstanding. I recommend the route highly, but as you will see, I think it will be better for you if you climb with double/half ropes.

The main challenge with pitch one is finding the correct start. If you walk down the carriage road to the distinctive Andrew boulder, the next blazed trail up the talus will take you directly to the base of CCK. Walk climber's left around the large right-facing corner and continue past another prominent left-facing corner system that ascends all the way to the GT ledge (this is the Moonlight corner). It is another thirty or forty feet to the base of No Glow. Look above, at least halfway to the GT Ledge, for an obvious jutting right-facing flake that forms an overhang. Then look down beneath this flake for blocks stacked against the wall about 30 or 40 feet off the ground. Below these stacked blocks is the start of No Glow, up a ramp-like set of features to the blocks.

The start has no pro for 15 or 20 feet. You can see from the ground where your first pro will be; there are good cam placements there. The climbing to this point is quite easy, but it might unnerve a new leader to go so far before the first gear placement. Once you reach the stacked blocks my recommendation is to leave them alone. You may be tempted to place gear in the cracks amongst these blocks but there is no reason to do so; there is a good crack for pro on the wall to the right. It is also just as easy to climb the route without touching them. From the blocks you should aim for the flake, following your nose up the wall past numerous horizontals. There is a horizontal pretty much wherever you might want one, and numerous ways to climb; I tend to meander a little, following the opportunities for placing gear. Getting past the flake is not difficult, but in my opinion it is the steep crux of the pitch. Once over the flake head pretty much straight up to the big oak tree/rappel station on the GT ledge.

Pitch two begins just to the left, in the prominent left-facing corner. Climb into the corner and then traverse out right beneath the overhang around the outside corner and onto the main face, with your feet just above the first lip. This is the part of the pitch that Williams describes as rated 5.5 R, but I don't think it really is if you use double ropes. There is a bomber vertical crack at the back of the corner for pro. If you place gear here with a long runner you won't create a ton of drag and you'll be protected just fine for the first insecure step of the traverse. After this first step the traverse is much easier, with no worries around the outside corner to the face. Once on the main face I would immediately place pro using my OTHER rope so as not to create an ocean of drag.

After the fun traverse, the climbing steepens up a shallow dihedral to the roof crux. There's a pin and a good crack for pro here. Then pull the overhang (think undercling and a long reach), clip the second pin, and make a smeary step up to a good stance. Pretty easy for 5.9. The rest of the way you'll find good, thoughtful but easier climbing to the top on marble-like rock similar to what you experience on the nearby Arrow wall.

Your double ropes will also be helpful with No Glow's descent. There are rap rings at the top on steel cables around trees. I believe you can make it to the GT ledge with a single 60 meter rope rap from here, but from the GT Ledge to the ground requires two ropes. If you only have a single, walk climber's right on the GT Ledge around the corner to the tree above the first pitch of CCK. From this tree one a single 60 meter rope will get you to the ground. Or from the top of the cliff walk climber's left to the Arrow bolts (two raps with a single) or climber's right to the bolts at Ken's Blind Hole (three raps with a single).

Another Beautiful Day!

Thursday morning (August 19th) brought another day of beautiful sunshine! I was up and on my way to Anchorage a little after seven o'clock. While I was still in Seward on Tuesday the “Malfunction Indicator Light” in the van had come on. The owner's manual says it is part of the onboard diagnostic system that monitors engine and automatic transmission control systems. It further stated that certain conditions such as a loose or missing gas cap or poor fuel quality could illuminate the light and that the vehicle should be serviced if the light stays on after several typical driving cycles. What is a typical driving cycle? I removed the gas cap and put it back on in case it had been loose, but that didn't help.

Well, the light came on every time I started the engine, irritatingly beeping at me each time as a reminder. Not that I needed a reminder with that silly light staring me in the face! So, along with an oil change, which was past due, I needed to get this Indicator Light checked out. I had located a Dodge dealer in Anchorage, via the internet, and got there without any problems. It took them a while to get me checked in (the young man definitely was not computer savvy) and then it was another four hour wait.

Turns out that the malfunction code had something to do with the emissions system and the people that do the oil changes (quick maintenance, they called it) don't work on that stuff so I had to go talk to another fellow. He seemed to know what he was talking about. He said that they could charge me $100 to run diagnostic tests or I could simply get a new gas cap! Apparently, Dodge Vans have a problem with gas caps... so for $26 the gas cap was replaced and they cleared the code. The indicator light hasn't come back on so I'm hopeful that the problem has been solved.

It was rather frustrating to wait there for nearly five hours with such a beautiful day outside. I drove through Anchorage just to get a feel for the place. There was a lot of road construction going on but it was still relatively easy to get around. I found my way to Earthquake Park, an area set aside to commemorate the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake which devastated southern Alaska. On clear days it offers views of the Knik Arm of Cook Inlet and Mount McKinley, only 200 miles away. On this day McKinley was visible, but just barely. It was rather ghostly looking and melted into the sky.

At Earthquake Park I connected with the Tony Knowles Coastal Trail, which is a paved bicycle and walking path that meanders along the coastline. I followed it for a couple of miles, nearly getting run down by several cyclists, but the weather was beautiful as were the views that I could see through the trees.

Expansive views of Cook Inlet were not to be seen since much of the trail that I walked was tree lined on both sides. It was just nice to be outside with no rain! Anchorage has an extensive park and trail system (120 miles of trails) as well as many other attractions and activities, but I was being lazy and didn't do much of anything.

I hadn't yet made up my mind as to where I would go next so I returned to the campground at Bird Creek, 25 miles southeast of Anchorage. It is a lovely drive along Turnagain Arm and the paved trails in that area offer some nice views.

A Season of Evenings

Walking through town just as the light began to fade, I had one of those odd moments when everything falls into a rhythm. A woman in very high heels had just unlocked her bicycle from a pole and began rolling it down the sidewalk toward me, her shoes clicking on the bricks and the hem of her coat fluttering in the breeze. At the same time a second-story window opened and there was the late Jim Morrison's drunken baritone singing "come on now touch me baby." The sound warped a little, carried sideways by the breeze. Just then someone down the street slammed their car door and the alarm went off, a persistent beeping without that edge of harshness it would have had, had it been closer. As I stood still for some seconds, letting the woman in the heels and coat maneuver her bike around me, all of these events became harmonised. Click-click, beep-beep, what was that promise that you made? Click-click, beep-beep, why won't you tell me what she said? The woman looked up toward the open window as she passed me, and suddenly I was flooded with a sense of deja-vu.




In the Russian language there is a word - a verb - to describe the onset of evening: "vechereyet" (вечереет). It's an archaic word, but still used on occasion. The closest English translation would be something like "evening is coming," but the mood is not the same. And it's the mood of that word that's important. You hear it, and you feel an "eveningness" gently setting in. It's an anticipatory state, fostering expectations of moonlight, cricket sounds, a chill in the air, perhaps peals of laugher in the dark. I remembered this word on my way home today. The sun had nearly set and when I looked at the time I saw it was 5:35pm. "This is the last week of October," I thought. A season of early evenings awaits.

My Rock

I saw this rock by the road and wanted to bring it home but Lee wouldn't let me.

Foggy Maples

A foggy afternoon in the forest on the last day of August . This was taken with my 'point-and-shoot' camera, a Canon G11.