Real weight?

Some times even I wonder just how important tracking you gear weights really is.



If you wonder as well take a quick look at what I used on Polar Circus in '08 and what I used on the same climb in similar conditions in '09, '10 and '11.



pack-CCW in ballistics nylon 2#6oz

boots-Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz

screws-12 -12cm Helix 60.7oz

belay parka-Mtn Hardware Compressor Hoody 19.8oz

soft shell-Arcteryx Gamma MX Hoody XL 24oz

pants-Arcteryx soft shell Bib large 30.3oz

helmet-Grivel Salamander 13.7oz

crampons-Grivel G12 full bot 35.6oz



total weight in 16.5#



pack-CCW Ozone, custom, 20" back, Spectra 1#9oz no lid

boots-Trango Evo Extreme GTX 2#3oz

screws-8 -12cm Helix 40.8oz

no belay parka

hard/soft shell-EB Frontpoint XL 18.5oz

pants-Gamma Lt large 12oz

helmet-Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz

Dartwin 1/2 bot 30.5oz



Total weight in 10.6#



How does that relate to effort in the real world? In '08 we climbed the route as fast as I ever have with a partner. In '09, with more comfort and significantly less effort than I have ever used on the climb and not actually trying to climb any faster than normal we almost cut that time in half! And in very similar conditions.





Even better I didn't add the weight savings of my gloves, harness, 'biners or inner layers all of which added up quickly as well for an additional significant weight savings. So my take is; it really is worth paying attention to what you buy and carry.





It is always a learning experience. The system I last used in warm conditions?



pack-REI Flash 18L 9.2oz -

boots-Scarpa Phantom Ultra 2#3.5oz +

screws-8-13cm BD Express 38.4oz -

Arcteryx Squawmish XL 5.6oz -

pants-Gamma Lt large 12oz =

helmet-Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz =

Stainess Sabertooth stripped/Neve heel 25.4oz -



Total weight 8.2#



And what I used in -30C temps early last winter?



CCW packs 1# 9oz



Spantiks 3#.05oz / 1362g



screws-12 -12cm Helix 60.7oz



Atom Lt Hoody 14.4oz / 429g



NWAlpine Salopettes 21.6oz / 612g



helmet-Petzl Meteor III 7.9oz =



Vertical front point crampons 39.4oz / 1116g



EB down pull over 15.4 oz / 455g





14.5#













Close ups of the upper tiers on Polar Circus.